Loch Lochy with Low Clouds and Rain

Day 19 Walking, Monday, June 24.  

Invergarry Hotel, Invergarry to Distant Hills, Spean Bridge. 

12 Miles, 4.5 Hours, Steps 31136. 

Breakfast was the thinnest Belgian waffle ever seen.  

Two couples eating at the same time were hard to ignore when their conversation was only about 4 feet from my table and we were the only patrons chewing at that time.  They were traveling on to Spain and Portugal after Scotland.  They have known each other for over 25 years and talked of people mutually known.  I miss having a companion to chat with - GARY!!

They must have been physicians as the stories soon began to be about weird patients.  I listened to everything they said, with my head turned towards the window and studied the rain falling. 

Last night’s bed was at the historic Invergarry Hotel which has a bit of story.  The seat of the ancient Clan MacDonald and records date back from the late 1600’s when it was a drovers inn and later a stage coach stop.  

In the late 1700’s the landlord was a man named John Anderson who became close friends with a frequent visitor.  When the Poet Robert Burns visited the area he always stayed at this location. Burns wrote a poem “John Anderson, my jo, John” for his friend the landlord in 1790.  

Today’s building was constructed in 1885 for Edward “The Bear” Ellice who purchased the Glengary estate from the clan MacDonald and used it as a sporting lodge for his guests who came up from cities in the south for Stalking, Shooting, and Fishing.  These friends included Lords, Viscounts, Politicians, and Colonels from the military. 

Was driven back to South Laggan Locks where I was collected yesterday late afternoon and today would be collected at Garlochy Bottom Lock after crossing the swing bridge.  

Full set of waterproof attire was worn all day.  

Sheep for a short distance.  

Near Laggan where today’s route began was the place where the Battle of the Shirts took place in the 16th century between Highland clans over an insult.  Frasers vs MacDonalds and Cameron’s.

It was a hot day and everyone took their shirts off and fought.  No real victory, but lots of blood, guts and gore.  Of the original 900 men only 12 were left alive to put their shirts back on and go away to ‘lick their wounds’. 

Lunch break.  First course - the remains of a Cadbury chocolate bar, Second course, a mile later - one section of a Bounty bar, Third course, another mile later - remains of that Bounty bar, dessert - a few chocolate covered digestives.  Looks like today’s food intake was - chocolate.  Made mistake of not having any healthy lunch stuff with, but it was fun to indulge in, something I would never do at home. 

Being in woods was not too bad as it wasn’t heavy woods, there were many small waterfalls to pass, a few larger ones that were easily crossed by little bridges, the path undulated up and down, and there were occasional views out to Loch Lochy as the route followed the north shore. 

Braced against the heavy wind and went out to see the ‘pepper pot’ lighthouse which stands as a signal where the Caledonian Canal enters Loch Lochy.  

There were 7 chickens and a rooster wandering around the area of Gairlochy Locks, and even a sign saying that ‘Chickens Were On The Loose’.  

29 Walkers vs 14 Bikers today on the Great Glen Way. 

More signage about the Commandos in this area.  Went into a little hotel here in Spean Bridge that had a entire room set up as an exhibition with lots of documentation, items, letters, photos.  Enjoyed a bit of history.  

How to dry laundry.  Use the curtain rod.  

“If you find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn’t lead anywhere.”  Frank A Clark