Rannoch Moor and An Opportune Ride.

Day 23 Walking, June 28.  

Edencoille Guest House, Kinlochleven to Kilbride 

Lodge, Tyndrum.  

19 Official Miles, Lois did 13 Miles, 6 HOT HOURS, Steps 29975.

Walkers - 112 - Where were the crowds?

Bikers - 3

Runners - 1

Dogs - 1

Illusive Elsie (age 75) appeared complete with fuchsia streaks in her dyed blonde hair.  She was the driver for the trip back to Kingshouse Hotel in her Range Rover.  Elsie was not a good driver.  Pleased to escape to the wide open spaces that only required feet.  

Her husband Drew does have a hearing issue which explains his lack of responding.  Wears two hearing aids and still has trouble.  

Because they are open 7 days a week from March through October they take the winter to escape.  Elsie grew up in the village of Kinlochleven and when their house/B&B was put on the market they bought it very cheap, but like all inexpensive things it required LOTS of work and money.   In the beginning there was only one bathroom and three bedrooms for their family.  Now 40 years later they can sleep 18 guests and all rooms are en-suite. 

Their winter trips seem very exotic to me.  15 years in a row they spent a month in Egypt.  This year there will be two weeks in Mexico, and later they will be gone to Dubai, Thailand, and Vietnam for 6 weeks.  She loves Vietnam.  Wants to go to Japan next year.  One long trip was to India where Drew didn’t like the smell, but was glad he had gone. 

They have never been to France or Germany and are saving that for when they get old and retire.  Funny.  

There is that green backpack by the rock. Before I took the photo I had been sitting on the other side of the rock.  Pack and I needed a bit of separation time.  

Had the continental breakfast again.  An Asian family of 6 was eating at the same time. The mom was trying to get her son, about age 6, to try the salmon.  Mom had speared a fillet of salmon about 7 inches long on her fork and was leaning across the table offering it to son.  She held the fork with the fish dangling and the boy sort of sucked and tried to bite it.  This went on for quite a while.  My solution would have been to cut off a small piece and put it on son’s plate.  Instead he had it dangling from his mouth and his mother was dangling across the table holding a fork with a pink fish. 

Blackrock Cottage is really a white cottage and stands out amongst all the greenery and stone mountains.  

Climbed up from Kingshouse Hotel to the high point (1460 feet) of today’s path. The route followed the old stone drovers road (very stony and hard on the feet) for 10 miles across the Rannoch Moor.  This is the largest uninhabited wilderness in Britain.  50 square miles of beauty.  

The moor is the remotest and wildest of the WHW and there are no escape routes or even shelter in bad weather.  Once you commit to the path you are on it until the end.  

Passed by Coire Ba the largest mountain amphitheater in Scotland, but the light was not good so no photos.  

Camping with a huge tent.  

Lunch was outdoors at the Inveroran Hotel. Best tuna sandwich yet!  And I was able to sit with feet elevated on the chair next to me.  Two walkers came and took off their packs and laid down in the shade and seemed to take a nap while I chewed. 

Climbed the hill between Inveroran and Bridge of Orchy and went the extra distance up to the cairn (1050 feet) for the 360 degree view

Inveroran Hotel way down below. 

Lois and her feet knew for certain that she was not going to walk those final miles from Bridge of Orchy to Tyndrum.  Chewing on the tuna and relaxing decided me.  It was hot, which is draining on the body, and the rocky path made for hot tired feet.  Decided to stop while I was still ahead of the pain.  

Learned bus schedule inside Bridge of Orchy Hotel and had 45 minutes to wait for the City Link 919, same bus running up and down the A82.  Sat outside under an umbrella at a table next to a group of 6 walkers carrying LOTS of stuff. One guy had a bag of ice on his knee and was saying “well, that’s it for me”.   He looked sad and in pain.  

About 10 minutes before bus was due the pack was hoisted on and I carefully crossed the busy highway to wait for the bus.  After standing there for five minutes a car came down the side road, man rolled down the windows and wanted to know where I was going.  He, Andrew, had two young guys with him, and piles of gear (packs and bikes, etc.).  Walked over to the car and told him Tyndrum.  I was offered a ride.  

Lois climbed in the backseat squeezing pack and self in next to Gordon, I think.  Sweating.  They were in a caravan of 3 vehicles heading back to Edinburgh after the young men had just completed participating in the Duke of Edinburgh Challenge for a week.  Or was it just a practice session?  Lots of quick chatter and exact details were missed.  Never quite did catch the name of the other young man in the front seat.  

Quickly the usual questions are asked.   Where are you from.  When I said Wisconsin and I lived in the center of the state, Stevens Point, about 150 miles north of Chicago, Andrew the driver, asked if it was near Wausau.  I couldn’t believe he knew that city.  Turns out his daughter competed in the White Water kayak races in 2012 and came in 5th place for her age (under 18). 

I sort of eyeballed them and decided it would be alright before climbing in.  They were equally disheveled and sweaty as myself. 

Welcomed back to Kilbride Lodge by Kate who has been following my blog and knew all about my heel misfortune.  Had forgotten I had given her the address.  Fun to realize there are a few who actually read my ramblings.  

“An early morning walk is a blessing for the whole day.”  Henry David Thoreau

Feeling like daily I am having my blessings.